Article by Sugel Gamal Michelén
The decade that Oscar de la Renta called the ‘Death of Couture’ has found a second wind with a whole new niche in a post-feminist post-capitalist age, where men are ready to demand their right to a redefinition of masculinity in a brave new world.
Fashion is not only for girls. Even thou for the last 50 years men have worn the same button down shirt and simple pants, in the last two years we have seen the leading labels in couture and pret-a-porter giving increasing attention to male fashion. What used to be a small footnote in the main Fashion Weeks, has taken over, getting their own Week in Paris, Milan and New York. So, that we have designers the size of Vivienne Westwood opening a completely new Only-For-Men rooms on her exclusive house.
On one side we have the ‘classic’ labels that have always addressed/dressed men keeping it GQ-clean like Prada and Zegna; and in the other one, those who, like Etro and Armani, were used to present a more flamboyant and often inaccessible man, both now offering ‘one-clickers’ that gives the manliest of men the same mirror tingles that were exclusive to Vogue readers.
The causes of this can be counted on the ranks of the same that a Galiano-McQueen-less world has seen as decadence; crisis, unemployment, bankruptcy of the main couture houses and a new breed of technological self-made men, who no longer need a closet full of office ties and white shirts. Also, comic-to-movies flicks have played a significant role in that.
New shapes and colors are being explored and most importantly, they have included men in the dizzying vortex of textures, trends and gossips of the fashion world.
Homework: Research Milano Moda Uomo 2011 and the trends for Fall Winter set by Costume National, Dsquared, John Varvatos, Berberry and Frankie Morello.